Premium Services Group

Do you build new houses?

Yes, ground-up as well as renovation. New construction starts further back than most people expect — the lot, zoning, utilities, drainage and access all come before anything about the house itself — so the first conversation is about whether the site works, not about finishes. Bring whatever you know about the land, including the survey if there is one.

The site decides more than the plan does

A house plan can be drawn anywhere. Whether it can be built on your particular piece of ground is a separate question, and it is settled by things you cannot see from the road.

What is under the topsoil: in this state, often ledge, which turns excavation for a foundation or a utility trench into a different kind of work. How high the water table sits, which decides whether a basement is sensible. Whether any part of the parcel is wet in a way that brings a buffer and a separate approval with it. How the ground falls, which drives foundation design, driveway grade and where water ends up.

None of that is exotic and all of it is knowable early. The mistake is to design first and survey second, because the survey then becomes a list of reasons the design has to change.

Design first and survey second, and the survey becomes a list of reasons the design must change.

Water in, waste out

Two questions that decide a great deal about a house, and both of them are answered off the property rather than on it.

Water: town supply, or a well. A well has to be sited, drilled, tested and kept a required distance from anything that could contaminate it, and what it yields is not knowable in advance.

Waste: town sewer, or an on-site system. Where there is no sewer, the ground has to be tested to establish what kind of system it will support, the system has to be designed and approved, and that design then governs the house — most directly, how many bedrooms it may have. It is entirely possible for a lot to support a smaller house than the one somebody had in mind, and it is far better to learn that before the architect than after.

If you are buying land rather than building on land you own, these are the questions to settle before you close, not after.

Access, power and where the water goes

A driveway is not a detail. It has to meet the road somewhere the town will allow, at a grade that works in ice, with sight lines that satisfy whoever governs the road, and it has to carry a concrete truck and a lumber delivery before it ever carries your car.

Power, and any other service, has to get from where it is to where the house will be, and the length of that run is a real cost that has nothing to do with the house.

And there is stormwater. Putting a roof, a driveway and a patio on a lot changes what happens to rain that used to soak in. Towns increasingly want to see where it goes, and a design that ignores it tends to produce a wet basement or an unhappy neighbour, sometimes both.

What a permit needs before it will issue

More than a floor plan, and the list varies by town, which is why it is confirmed for your address rather than assumed.

Typically a site plan showing the building located on the parcel with its setbacks and grades; construction drawings, stamped by a design professional where the work requires it; structural information; energy code compliance for the envelope and the systems; and evidence that the separate approvals — septic, wetlands, coastal, a district review — are in hand where they apply.

The registration of whoever is doing the work is recorded on the permit. Rhode Island requires contractors and most subcontractors to be registered with the state board, and a town will not issue a permit without it, which is the mechanism that turns "is this person legitimate" into something you can check rather than something you have to feel.

Build it in the order the weather allows

On a ground-up build the calendar is part of the design.

Foundations want ground that is not frozen. Concrete has a real temperature floor and will not cure properly over frozen ground. Framing goes on in most weather but the sooner the building is roofed and wrapped, the sooner everything else stops depending on the forecast. Exterior finishes, coatings and site work have their own conditions.

So the sensible target on any build started in the second half of the year is to be closed in before the cold, and to run the interior through the winter. That is a way of planning rather than a promise about dates — weather stops exterior work at some point on every job, and what you are owed then is a call and a revised date rather than an assurance it will not happen.

What to bring to the first conversation

Where it is
The town and the address or the lot reference. The town determines the rules, the fees and the timetable, so it is the first thing anyone needs.
Anything on paper
A deed, a plot plan, a survey, a soil or perc result, a previous approval. Even an old one tells you something.
Sewer or septic, town water or well
If you do not know, say so — it is the first thing to find out and it is findable.
What the house has to do
How many people, how they live, what has to be on one floor, what you cannot compromise on. More useful at this stage than a style.
Whether you own it yet
If you are still buying, the feasibility questions belong before you close rather than after.
How it is being funded
If any of it is borrowed, say so at the start — lenders bring their own paperwork and release money in draws that have to line up with the payment schedule.

Related questions

I don't have plans, just an idea.

That is a normal starting point, and most projects begin there rather than with a finished drawing set. The first conversation is about what you want to end up with; what drawings are needed after that depends on the scope and on what the town wants to see. Bring photos and a rough sense of the budget you have in mind, and it moves faster.

Do I need an architect or an engineer?

Sometimes. Structural changes and larger projects often need stamped drawings before a town will issue a permit, and smaller work often does not. Which side yours falls on gets checked with the town early, so you are neither paying for drawings that were never needed nor waiting on ones nobody ordered.

Does my town need a permit for this?

Rhode Island permits at the town level — thirty-nine of them, each with its own forms, fees and review times — so the honest answer genuinely depends on where the property is and what is being done to it. Nobody can rule on your job from a web page, and it is worth being wary of anyone who tries. Tell the office the town and roughly the scope and you will get a straight answer for your situation.

Do you offer financing?

Worth knowing how this usually comes together, whatever the answer here: renovation money most often arrives from savings, a home equity line, or a bank's renovation loan, and sometimes from a lender a contractor introduces. If any of it is borrowed, say so at the very start — lenders bring their own paperwork, sometimes an appraisal, and they often release money in draws that have to line up with the contractor's payment schedule. Getting those two schedules to agree is the part that catches people out. Ask the office directly what it can work with: (401) 405-8407.

How long will my project take?

It depends on scope, permitting and how the property is set up, so a real timeline comes after someone has looked at the job. You get that schedule in writing along with the price, and you are told when it moves.

Start with the town and the piece of ground.

The office answers within one business day.